Peppers have always been one of the most popular vegetables in the home garden

Peppers in the Garden

There is such a great number of unique and delicious pepper seeds available that more and more home gardeners are trying their hand at growing from seed. Peppers come in a great variety of colors, shapes, sizes and flavors and are second only to Tomatoes as the most popular food in the backyard garden.

Growing peppers from seed can be a challenge but, armed with knowledge and persistence, even the most beginner gardener can successfully grow a great variety of peppers.

5 Tips for growing Peppers from Seed

1. When to Start Pepper Seeds:

   Start seeds at least 10 and preferably 12-14 weeks (if you live in a northern climate with a shorter growing season) before the last frost date for your area.

2. Germinating Pepper Seeds:

   Pepper seeds need moisture, a fairly warm temperature, air, and light for best germination. When choosing a soil make sure it is light and well draining (not “potting soil”) to be sure the pepper roots get get both air and water. A good choice for starting pepper seeds is a commercial peat-lite type seed starting soil directly from a newly opened bag (to be sure that the soil is weed free). Peat-based soils contain a live bacteria that helps to prevent mold growth. Chile seeds germinate at soil temperatures of 75° – 90°F (20° – 35°C) with 85°F (30°C) being ideal. You can use a heating pad or an old electric blanket combined with an pocket thermometer, Electric Soil Warming Cables or “plant propagation mats” found in nurseries and hardware stores.

3. Soak Seeds BEFORE Planting:

   Soaking your seeds before planting will help soften the seed hull. An easy way to soak the seed is to place the seeds in a small sieve and dip it into a cup or bowl of warm water. If any seeds float, dab them with your finger to break the surface tension. Some believe that the “floaters” generally do not germinate as well and/or produce stunted plants. Allow the seeds to soak overnight. (NOTE: this is the “true” organic gardening technique. Some gardeners prefer to soak their seeds in a chemical mix. If you are looking for that technique you will have to search elsewhere as we only promote organic techniques.) After rinsing your seeds, place them on several layers of paper towels to absorb the extra moisture. You are now ready to plant your seeds!

4. Plant Pepper Seeds:

   There are a variety of different seed starting containers commercially available. Some that are recommended specifically for starting pepper seeds are the: Gro-Packs, Styrofoam 40-cell trays from A. P. Systems, Peat Pellets or Peat Pots. Regardless of what container you choose to use you will need to tightly cover them, either with saran wrap or a fitted clear plastic dome. Covering after watering will create a “hothouse” environment- ideal for pepper seed germination! The seeds are set on the surface of the soil (the soil should be MOIST not too wet), one per cell and sprinkled with another light coat of potting medium, then given a light mist of water from a hand pump sprayer. Cover tray with the saran wrap or clear plastic dome and set on heating mat/blanket or other warm place like on top of your refrigerator.
   Do not set a domed flat in direct sun! It can cook the seeds.
   Remove the dome once to every other day to let fresh air get to the seeds and mist spray the soil if needed. Some chile seeds take a long time to germinate (70-90 days or more) , but they should do so using these instructions. So don’t give up! Once the seedlings are up, remove the plastic dome cover, but do not let the soil dry out. If the seedlings are allowed to wilt, they may not die, but their growth will be set back.

5. Transplant Pepper Seedlings:

   Seedlings should be transplanted to a 3 or 4 inch pot as soon as the first true leaves are fully unfolded, and the second pair of true leaves is just beginning to develop. About two weeks before you plan to transplant your seedlings to the garden you should begin “hardening off” (exposing the seedling to more sunlight and wind). No matter what type of pepper you grow, they like the weather hot. Transplant pepper seedlings outdoors after the last chance of frost has past. If the weather is still cool, delay transplanting a few days, and keep them in a coldframe, indoors or next to the house.
   Peppers should be spaced 18-24 inches apart, in rows 24 to 36 inches apart. This spacing may vary somewhat by variety.
   Pepper plants prefer moist soil. Avoid wet soil. Water regularly in the hot, dry summer months.
   Add mulch around the peppers to keep down weeds, and to retain moisture.

Watch them grow and enjoy!

When your Peppers are ripe and ready to be indulged, click here to check out our delicious recipes for cooking with even the hottest peppers!!

Peppers can be picked as soon as they reach a size which is edible.

Make friends with the "Good Bugs" in your garden!

The “good bugs” of the garden, are called Beneficial Insects. Beneficial Insects are those that feed on garden pests like aphids (suck the sap out of plants, weakening the plant and causing the spread of viruses) and slugs (damage leaved crops and vulnerable seedlings). Beneficial Insects are also those that help with the pollination of garden crops.

Some of the Good Bugs That Should be Welcome In Your Garden:

• Parasitoid wasps – feed on Aphids, Caterpillars and Grubs
• Lacewing larvae – feed on Aphids
• Ladybug larvae – feed on Aphids
• Ground beetles – feed on ground-dwelling pests
• Hover flies, and Robber flies – feed on many insects, including Leafhoppers and Caterpillars
• Nematodes – kill many garden insects including, including Grubs and Japanese Beetles.
• Bumble and Honey Bee – helps with pollination
• Dragon Fly -eat Mosquitoes, Aphids and other pest bugs
• Spiders – the most important predators on insects, killing more than all other predators combined

To attract Good Bugs to your garden, you will need to supply them with reliable food sources and shelter.
Insects have different feeding requirements during the various stages of their development, so a diversity of plants is essential to attracting them. Although beneficial insects do feast on pest insects, there may be certain points in their life cycles when many beneficial insects need to sip flower nectar or pollen to survive. To attract these insects to your garden, you will need to provide host plants and plants for shelter.
When you are planning your garden, choose a variety of plants that will bloom throughout the year to attract the Good Bugs!

Here are some things you can do to support your Good Bug population:

• Plant nectar-producing flowers to increase the food supply. Plants in the cabbage, carrot and sunflower family are especially attractive to the Good Bugs
  

  Provide Native flowers for these great Pollinators to feed on.

• Plant tiny flowers for tiny wasps, like Coriander, Queen Anne’s Lace, fennel, angelica, dill, clovers, yarrow, and rue
• Plant composite flowers (black eyed susan, daisy and chamomile) and mints (spearmint, peppermint, or catnip) to attract predatory wasps, hover flies, and robber flies
• Plant low growing plants as cover for ground beetles (thyme, rosemary, or mint)
  
  

  Larvae and adults feed on soft-bodied insects such as aphids, mealybugs, scale insects and spider mites as well as insect eggs.

• Control ants which may hinder the Good Bug’s ability to control aphids
• Do NOT use broad-spectrum, contact insecticides. These will only provide temporary control and will kill more natural predators( Good Bugs) than pests (Bad Bugs). In the long run, this will actually benefit the growth of the pest (Bad Bugs) populations.
• Cover bare dirt in your garden with dead leaves or grass clippings mulch thick enough to shade the soil surface. This will provide shelter for spiders, which are the number one predator on insects.
  
  

  Spiders feed on a broad variety of pest insects year-round.

• Bring in the Birds! – Birds are also very helpful with controlling Bad Bugs. Any trees, shrubs or plants with berries will attract birds. And, no garden is complete without a birdhouse!

What about the Slugs?

Slugs are one of the most damaging pests known to the garden. A family of slugs can devastate a vegetable crop in a matter of days. Slugs will eat any kind of vegetation but prefer tender leaves. Slugs will also eat vegetables and fruits, and cause very unsightly damage to the crops.
Attracting slug predators to your garden can help to control or avoid a slug population. Toads, snakes, ducks, chickens and raccoons are some of the most common predators of slugs.

As you continue to learn to work with the Good Bugs and the inner working of your garden you will see the benefits and all of the “give and take” at work at your feet.

A moon garden brings magic to your garden!

“The moon was but a chin of gold, a night or two ago, and now she turns her perfect face, upon the world below.”

(Emily Dickenson)

“When I admire the wonder of a sunset or the beauty of the moon, my soul expands in worship of the Creator.”

(Mahatma Gandhi)

When we think of gardening, most of us think of the warm sun overhead, we have forgotten the power and mystery of our gardens at night!

Planting a Moon Garden is a great way to make the most of your garden. Your Moon Garden will allow you the pleasure of enjoying the enchantment provided by the moonlight and the flowers that love it!

What is a Moon Garden?
A Moon Garden is a garden that is planted with the intention of being most beautiful at night…by the light of the moon. The selected plants are frequently white and many, like the Flowering Tobacco, bloom at dusk and after sunset. The plants in a Moon Garden have unique scents that will attract night pollinators like moths and bats. The white color of the flowers and the green foliage will often make a moon garden appear to float in the night air. Some Moon Garden flowers, like the Star Flowers,  are selected for their unique shapes that reflect the stars of the night sky.

When planning a spot for your Moon Garden, be sure to note where the moonlight peaks in your yard. It is also important to make sure you have a nice spot to sit, to allow your eyes to adjust to the night so you can fully enjoy the splendor of the colors and shapes of the post-sun enchanted garden!

What are the Effects of the Moon on Gardening?
It has long been thought that the moon , its phases and the signs of the zodiac all have a strong influence on when certain crops should  be planted or harvested. In general, the lore says that above ground crops should be planted during the waxing moon (between new and full) and below ground crops should be planted during the waning moon (between full and new).

Folklore uses the moon phases as a crop planting guide

In addition to the moon’s phases, some believe it is also important to be aware of which zodiac sign the moon is occupying. Certain signs are thought to be better for specific tasks than other. For example,when the moon is in Gemini, its a good day for weeding or mowing and when the moon is in Libra, it’s a great day to plant flowers!

A summary of the signs of the zodiac and their effect on your work in your garden

Even when the moon is in the right phase for planting, check the moon sign, (zodiac) to make sure the sign for that day is fruitful. For example, if you plant when the moon is in the right phase but the moon sign is in the Bowels, you will get garden plants that grow and bloom vigorously, but will produce little fruit. For a complete day to day guide to the moon and the zodiac, visit a Farmer’s Almanac Guide.

Once you fall in love with the night, your fondest gardening will not only occur with the sun in your hair, but also with the moonbeams at your feet.

“I often think that the night is more alive and more richly colored than the day.”

(Vincent Van Gogh)

Lasagna Garden

The “Lasagna Garden” has nothing to do with what you grow in your garden and everything to do with what you grow your garden IN!

“Lasagna Gardening” (also known as sheet composting) is the symbolic name given to a no-dig, no-till organic method of garden soil preparation that results in wonderfully rich, fluffy soil.

“Lasagna gardening” is a method of building your garden’s soil by adding layers of organic materials (in the same way you layer a lasagna) that will “cook down” over time and result in wonderful soil for your spring planting seeds and plants.

Pretty much anything you want to grow will thrive in a Lasagna Garden. Here is a list of vegetables that do especially well in this growing environment:

• Asparagus
• Tomatoes
• Beans
• Cucumbers
• Garlic
• Lettuce
• Potatoes
• Oregano, Basil and other Herbs

You can make your Lasagna Garden at any time of year but, fall is the ideal time for starting the Lasagna. Starting in fall gives your Lasagna (aka…your garden) plenty of time over the winter to “cook” (aka…break down) so, in the spring, it will be ready for planting! Fall is also ideal because there is an abundance of leaves, yard clippings and organic waste and the increase in moisture (rain and snow) will encourage the organics you put in your garden to break down more quickly.

If you decide to make your Lasagna Garden in the spring or summer, you will just need to increase the amount of soil/peat/topsoil you add so that the garden will need to do less “cooking” and will be ready for planting.

Ingredients you will need for your “Lasagna Garden”:
Really, anything you would normally put into a compost pile, is perfect for your Lasagna Garden. Here are some suggestions:

• Leaves and Grass Clippings
• Fruit and Vegetable Scraps
• Coffee Grounds
• Tea leaves and tea bags
• Weeds (if they haven’t gone to seed)
• Manure
• Compost
• Seaweed
• Peat moss
• Pine needles
• Spent blooms, trimmings from the garden
• Newspaper and/or cardboard
  The practice of using cardboard or newspapers in the garden has been around for a long time; here’s an account from Mr. S. Powers, who wrote to The Cultivator and Country Gentleman in March of 1884:
  “The Spring Campaign against Insects:
  If the farmer was provident enough to tie up young fruit trees last fall with newspapers, as a protection against rabbits (and it is a sufficient protection if carefully done), he ought, as soon as the danger from this source is passed, to remove the wrappings. If they are left on, they form a convenient refuge for aphides or lice, and soon the bark will be wounded and disfigured.”

Even though the use of newspapers has been around for at least 200 years, it still remains a mysterious practice to most backyard gardeners.

If you’ve ever baked (or eaten) lasagna, you know it is layered. A noodle layer followed by alternating layers of browns, greens whites and reds. Well, Lasagna gardening follows the same basic recipe (minus the red layer!).

• Your first layer, the “noodle” layer, will be either newspaper or cardboard.
  NOTE: If you are using cardboard, be sure to remove any packing tape. If you are using newspaper, be sure to separate out any of the glossy pages and do not use magazines.
  • Cover your entire planned garden area with a layer of brown corrugated cardboard OR 4-6 layers of wet newspaper, overlapping the edges by few inches to keep weeds at bay. One of the great benefits of this technique is that you DO NOT have to prepare the ground under the noodle layer. You do not have to remove grass, sod, rocks, turf, weeds….nothing. Just lay the noodle (cardboard/newspaper) right on top of anything!
  • Before starting your second layer, be sure to really drench this first layer. This will help to keep everything in place and start the decomposition process.
  • The dark moist environment this layer provides will attract earthworms whom are a welcome guest in any vegetable garden environment!
• Your “browns” layer will be made up of organic browns such as fall leaves, shredded newspaper, peat, and pine needles.
• Your “green” layer will be made up of organic greens such as vegetable scraps, garden trimmings, and grass clippings.



Lasagna Gardening gets it’s name from layering, layering layering!

• The general rule of thumb for a Lasagna Garden in that you want your “brown” layers to be about twice as deep as your “green” layers. However, you do not need to be exact about this, just keep laying down brown and green layers until you have a bed that is about two feet tall. When you’re done layering wet the entire bed until it is moist all the way through. Then…wait! The bed height will shrink dramatically as the layers decompose.

If you made your Lasagna Garden in the spring or summer, you can start planting right away. If you make your Lasagna in the fall, let it cook over the winter and your soil will be ready for planting in the spring.

When you decide to start planting, just dig into the soil as you would with any garden. You will notice your soil is loose and easy to work with. If you used cardboard as your noodle layer, you may need to puncture a hole in it where you want to plant. If you used newspaper, the shovel will most likely go right through it.

In the long run, you will notice many advatages from this very old gardening technique:

• Fewer weeds, thanks to the newspaper suppressing them from below and the mulch covering the soil from above.
• Better water retention, due to the fact that compost (which is what you made by layering all of those materials) holds water better than regular garden soil, especially if your native soil is sandy or deficient in organic matter.
• Less need for fertilizer, because you planted your garden in almost pure compost, which is very nutrient-rich.
• Soil that is easy to work: crumbly, loose, and fluffy.
• Lasagna gardening is fantastic for the environment

The maintenance of your Lasagna Garden is simple- just add mulch (grass clippings, bark, leaves, straw) to the top of the bed. Weed and water as necessary and, of course, plant and harvest anything that brings you health and joy!

Happy Lasagna Gardening

Indoor Herb Garden Seedlings growing in Dixie Cups

Since Biblical times Herbs have held a special place in the home garden. Various herbs have been said to have “magical powers” or to carry intense meaning and significance. Today, herbs are valued for their culinary as well as for their health benefits.

Starting and growing an indoor herb garden is a great project for new and experienced gardeners alike.

The joys of harvesting garden herbs and cooking with fresh basil, oregano and mint can be enjoyed year round right off your window sill!

• The first step in starting your indoor Herb garden is selecting which Herbs you want to grow. Some of the most popular choices are:

Basil- A warm clove-like flavor and fragrance. Basil works well in combination with tomatoes and enhances vegetables,fish, chicken and egg dishes.
Oregano- Peppery flavor enhances cheese and egg combinations,as well as marinated vegetables and shellfish. Widely used in Greek and Italian cuisine.
Mint- A fresh and clean flavor that enhances a variety of meat, fish and vegetable dishes. Mixes well with lentils, soups, fruit drinks and desserts.
Parsley- A clean taste that serves as a natural breath freshener. Often used as a garnish or chopped and added to sauces and salads.
Cilantro- Cilantro leaves have a strong smell described by some as “soapy”. The stems also have a strong odor and flavor. Pairs well with cuisines of the US Southwest, Latin America, Southeast Asia, India, the Middle East, and in parts of northern Africa. Used to “lift” other flavors; they enhance and promote other pronounced flavors. Coriander roots are used often used fresh as a base flavor for Asian soups.
Sage- A lemony, camphor-like and pleasantly bitter taste makes this a perfect choice for cooking with pork, duck, fish, poultry, eggplant, artichokes and potatoes.
Dill- The delicate, fern-like Dill leaves have an essence of tang. Dill is often used in dressings, salads and fresh fish.
Chives- A sweet, mild onion flavor that complements almost every recipe. Chives are a common addition to potatoes, cream soups and egg dishes.

• Now that you have selected which Herbs to plant, you need to decide on a location for your garden. Your Herbs will need 4-6 hours of good sunlight a day. If you don’t have a window ledge or counter space that can provide enough light, you can supplement with fluorescent lights. Your Herb Garden will also need adequate ventilation. However, try to avoid any direct drafts or great temperature fluctuations
• When selecting a container to grow your Herbs in, it is recommended that you choose one that is around 8 inches deep and 6-8 inches across. Dixie cups can be great starter containers if you plan to move your herbs to larger containers or outside in the Spring.
• Fill your containers with premium-quality, well draining potting soil mixed with coarse sand and mushroom compost.
• You are now ready to plant your Herbs! Follow the directions on your seed’s label but, generally seeds should be planted to a depth of three to four times their diameter.
• Once your Herbs are planted your job is to Feed, Water and Harvest.
• While your Herb Seedlings are still growing, feed them once a week with seaweed extract or fish emulsion.
• Your Herbs should be watered with a good soaking once or twice a week.

Indoor Herb Garden ready for Harvest

• Harvest! When your seedling have grown enough to enjoy, gently clip what you need- always be sure to leave plenty of vigorous growth on the plant so you can continue to enjoy the benefits of your Indoor Garden Herbs!

One of the great adventures and benefits of growing Heirloom Quality vegetables is harvesting your own seeds for planting and growing next year.

Harvesting seeds from your Brocolli or any member of the “Cabbage or Cole Family” (including Cabbage, Cauliflower, Brussel Sprouts and Kale) actually starts long before the end of the growing season- the process begins with planting! Members of this family can cross-pollinate and should, ideally, be planted at least 1,000 feet from each other to prevent cross-pollinatation.

If you have a small home garden and would like to harvest your own Broccoli Seeds, try planting only Broccoli (or whichever Cole Crop’s seeds you hope to harvest).

If you planted multiple Cole Crops, have already reached the end of growing season, and would like to try to harvest seeds- Go For It! It’s always worth a try!

Harvesting Broccoli Seeds

• At the end of the growing season, stop trimming the Broccoli heads for consumption.
• First you will notice small yellow flowers then, the small green pods will begin to form.

Green Broccoli Seed Pods

• If you only want to collect a small amount of the seeds, wait for individual pods to dry to a light brown color. Pods toward the bottom of the plant will dry first, followed by those higher on the plant.  Once a pod appears dry, you can pick it and open it by hand or by walking on it.
• If you would like to collect the maximum amount of seeds, pull the entire plant from the ground after the majority of the pods appear dry.
• You can place all of your dried pods in a cloth bag and open them all by smashing them with a mallet or walking on them.
• Green pods will rarely produce viable seeds- even if the pods dry after the plant is pulled.
• All harvested seeds should be stored in a cool, dark and dry environment until you are ready to plant them.