Use Companion planting to combine beauty and purpose in your garden

An age old technique for garden success

Companion planting is an ancient gardening technique that can control pests and increase your harvest. Back in Roman times, citizens did not have the luxuries we have today, such as Garden Centers full of every conceivable spray, chemical or treatment for what ails our plants. They may have used methods described by Pliny the Elder in his many writings on natural histories, herbals and books for physicians. Or maybe they employed common folklore of the time to keep their gardens free from disease, pests and problems. Modern gardeners who employ companion planting will be using methods based on historical and contemporary folklore from various different cultures. Many plants have evolved and adapted to their particular pest problems and environments, and can be used as allies (or enemies) in your garden.

Why does it work?

One of the reasons companion planting works so well is that it creates diversity in your garden. The problem with diversity though, is that many people run out of room in their gardens. Or they don’t have a very large space to begin with, and devote all that space to the ‘food’ bearing plants. My rule is, always leave room for flowers, as this is one of the easiest ways to add diversity to any growing space. Or, use large clay pots and plant your companions in those, so they can be moved around if needed. If you’ve never tried companion planting before, a good way to start is by learning about what affects your favorite types of plants. Perhaps you love tomatoes most of all, so it would be most important to you that they thrive in your garden. Start small, and increase your companion planting as your comfort level rises. Effective companion planting, even if it is your first time, includes observation, some research and a bit of planning. These are the first three important things to know.

The Eight Things to Know:

Observe, Research and Plan

1.Observe: This is where keeping garden journals will help tremendously. Inspect your plants (I do this at least weekly) and if you notice bugs, don’t just head for the sprays, take note of what they are doing. Are they eating the plant? Burrowing into the stems? Laying eggs? Are there wilted leaves, black spots or distorted growth? Take notes or even bug and leaf samples in a ziplock bag.

2.Research: Now that you have a problem, research your plant online or in books from your library. There are many sites like (Whatsthatbug) that can help you learn if it’s a pest infestation, or are they beneficial insects that you want to stick around? Do they attack certain plants or many types? Do they only come around in the spring, or late summer? If you are stumped after your research, any samples you’ve taken can be shown to a garden professional for their advice.

3.Plan: Once you know what the problem is, you can deal with it effectively. Make sure you take notes about what steps you take, because you may refer back to them next year at planting time. Now, down to the specifics of how to affect change in your garden using plant helpers.

Repel, Decoy, Nurse, Attract and Complement

4.Repelling insects is the number one reason people try companion planting. One way to do this is with pungent smelling plants and herbs.

• Garlic can deter Bean Beetles and Potato Bugs, and Onions can keep pests from attacking Strawberries or Tomatoes.
• Lemon Balm, Mint and Thyme create aromatic compounds that deter many pests. These herbs are great for planting in small pots and scattering around the garden, or create borders of them along the edges of you garden as a barrier.
• Marigolds are widely known by their power to repel all kinds of invaders. Plant these amazing flowers everywhere!

5.Decoy plants can lure pests from your edible crops. One pests have been lured by your trap, you can then remove them off the decoy plant, destroy the plant, or treat it with some other type of natural or organic control treatment.

• Nasturtium is a great example of a decoy plant, as they attract Aphids and Flea Beetles, and also liven up the area with beautiful colors!

• Many, many pests are attracted to yellowish colors. Whiteflies, Aphids, Cucumber Beetles, Fungus Gnats and many types of flies can be fooled by planting yellow flowers near the plants they have taken up residence in.
• Mustard plants will attract Cabbageworms and Harlequin Bugs away from cabbage plants.

6.Nursery Plants are needed for those wonderful beneficial insects that should have homes in your garden. Many of those bugs you see out there might actually be helpful. Do your research first before you start killing them off, as they may be your allies!

• Any plant with small, tightly packed flowers (like yarrow or thyme) will likely attract beneficial insects.

• Dill can attract spiders, lacewings and parasitic wasps, which help control caterpillers, beetles and aphids.
• Plants from the Daisy family (cosmos, coreopsis, marigolds, sunflowers, asters, coneflowers, or dahlias) attract all kinds of beneficials, like ladybugs, assassin bugs, lacewings, hover flies and parasitic wasps. They are also an excellent source of pollen for bees!

7. Speaking of bees, attract them for better pollination across your entire garden. A few small to medium sized Bee Balm perennials, spread around in pots (because it will take over like mint!) will cause visiting bees to travel all over your garden for pollen. The first year I planted Bee Balm I noticed substantially more harvested Tomatoes and Peppers than any previous years had produced. Of course ANY flowers will do to attract them, but Bee Balm seems like candy to them!

• Important: Never, ever spray bee-attracting plants with any type of pesticide. A little light spritz with the water hose in the early morning gives them something to drink while they are spending all their energy pollinating. They get thirsty!

8.Complementary Crops are plants that help each other by shading, supporting and most importantly, don’t compete with each other for light, room or soil nutrients. This is a very efficient space-saving method for getting the most out of your garden.

• Tall crops like Corn, trellised Beans and Sunflowers can provide some shade for Lettuces, Spinach and Cucumbers, which can sometimes struggle in full sun. Plant tall crops on the south sides of beds or garden areas.
• Plant lifecycles are important to know, as you can plant quick growing annuals like Lettuce, Cilantro, Spinach, Arugula, and Radishes in the same area as slower plants like Melons or Brussel Sprouts. The faster growing ones will flower, attracting bees and beneficials, while shading the slower growers. Once the slow ones have caught up, your faster plants will have already been harvested.
• Plant bushy Broccoli with shorter Beets. Cabbage and Thyme also play quite well together. Carrots or Spinach under trellised peas makes a great use of space, too!

The list below will give you some basic tips on what works, and what does not in companion planting. I encourage you to learn more about companion planting:

Basic Companion Planting Guide for Backyard Gardens

Best of luck as you learn to harmonize your garden!

Companion planting can combine beauty and purpose to give you an enjoyable, healthy environment.

Nothing tops a fresh, garden grown Tomato!

A Muddled Past

The history of the tomato is long and, at times, very confusing! Andrew F Smith’s “The Tomato in America” states that tomatoes probably originated in the highlands of the west coast of south America. Tomatoes were a favorite of the Aztecs as early as 500 b.C., in southern Mexico and adjacent areas, and they preferred the smaller cherry-like tomatoes. The larger, lumpy variant is believed to have been selected in central America after a spontaneous mutation, and it’s probably the ancestor of all the modern cultivars.

Today’s varieties of tomatoes originate from two main predecessors: currant tomatoes and “Matt’s Wild Cherry” varieties. They both originate from the native tomato plants in eastern Mexico.

While most people may think they know everything there is to know about a tomato, the truth is that history has a muddled, confused view of the tomato, and even needed the Supreme Court to make an official ruling as to whether this amazing plant will be considered a vegetable or a fruit.   It turns out that the tomato is both! According to the Supreme Court the tomato is a vegetable, however botanically the tomato is a fruit.  Confused?  Regardless of whether you consider the tomato a fruit or a vegetable it is still an amazing plant that is fun to grow yourself.

A Little Tomato History

The Heirlooms

There are actually a wide variety of tomatoes available, and each offers there own unique qualities and challenges.  A group of tomatoes that have recently reached popularity amongst private cultivators are heirloom tomatoes.  Because there are many cultivars, the heirloom can be a chosen based on personal preference and environment.  So whether you decide on a more traditional tomato plant or want to try your hand at something a bit more unique the heirlooms can prove a fun and exciting way to grow.

Heirloom Tomato Cultivars come with so many colorful names, flavors colors and shapes. Here is a brief list of some of our favorites!

Brandywines

Brandywine: An Undisputed Heirloom Favorite

One of the greatest things about the heirlooms is the tremendous variety in which they come.  One of the most well known heirlooms, which also lends to their popularity, is the Brandywine.  The Brandywine has excellent flavor and long history.  Although the Brandywine reached the height of its popularity in the 1980’s from a farmer named Ben Quinsenberry, it has been noted in history books dating back to the late 1800’s.  While this plant takes a while to mature (typically 80-100 days) and has a relatively low yield per plant the outcome is always worth the wait.  The Brandywine boasts a large pinkish-fleshed tomato that is unrivaled in flavor and acidity.  Join the millions of people who enjoy the Brandywine and give it a grow!

The Bradywine Tomato

Stupice

Stupice Tomato: Sweet and Delicious

In contrast to the Brandywine, in terms of growth and yield, the Stupice heirloom is a reliable plant throughout the growing season, regardless of environment, and actually boasts a sweeter flavor as the weather goes from warm to cold.  Many people agree that the Stupice is the best tasting plant for early season planting and grows incredibly well in hot and cold weather depending on the variety.  That being said, the high yield, which produces quickly, and will continue to produce all season long, makes this a great tomato to plant first!

Dagma/Dogma’s Perfection

Dagma's Perfection Tomato- Unique Flavor, Unique Color!

If you are looking for something a little more exotic in flavor, and overall appearance, then there is one tomato plant most definitely worth taking a look at.  Whether you spell this next plant with an “o” or an “a”, Dogma’s Perfection is an eye grabbing veggie with amazing taste appeal.  This tomato can add spice to any dinner table in ways that other tomatoes just can’t compete with.  The medium sized tomatoes are clothed in a light yellow skin, complimented by delicate hairline red striping.  If that’s not enough to grab your attention wait until you taste it!  While the Dogma holds much of the traditional flavor expected of a ripened fruit, the unexpected overtones of tropical fruit are also present, including what some people describe as faint hints of lime within the juicy flesh.   Don’t be surprised if you make this a staple in your garden for years to come.

Happy Tomato Growing!

Tomatoes are the number one most popular plant to grow in America’s backyard gardens- and we can see why! Growing Tomatoes is a fun and extremely fulfilling pastime. With so many varieties to choose from you are sure to find a never ending (and very delicious) adventure.

Top World Tomato Producers

Happy Tomato Growing!...and Eating!

Make friends with the "Good Bugs" in your garden!

The “good bugs” of the garden, are called Beneficial Insects. Beneficial Insects are those that feed on garden pests like aphids (suck the sap out of plants, weakening the plant and causing the spread of viruses) and slugs (damage leaved crops and vulnerable seedlings). Beneficial Insects are also those that help with the pollination of garden crops.

Some of the Good Bugs That Should be Welcome In Your Garden:

• Parasitoid wasps – feed on Aphids, Caterpillars and Grubs
• Lacewing larvae – feed on Aphids
• Ladybug larvae – feed on Aphids
• Ground beetles – feed on ground-dwelling pests
• Hover flies, and Robber flies – feed on many insects, including Leafhoppers and Caterpillars
• Nematodes – kill many garden insects including, including Grubs and Japanese Beetles.
• Bumble and Honey Bee – helps with pollination
• Dragon Fly -eat Mosquitoes, Aphids and other pest bugs
• Spiders – the most important predators on insects, killing more than all other predators combined

To attract Good Bugs to your garden, you will need to supply them with reliable food sources and shelter.
Insects have different feeding requirements during the various stages of their development, so a diversity of plants is essential to attracting them. Although beneficial insects do feast on pest insects, there may be certain points in their life cycles when many beneficial insects need to sip flower nectar or pollen to survive. To attract these insects to your garden, you will need to provide host plants and plants for shelter.
When you are planning your garden, choose a variety of plants that will bloom throughout the year to attract the Good Bugs!

Here are some things you can do to support your Good Bug population:

• Plant nectar-producing flowers to increase the food supply. Plants in the cabbage, carrot and sunflower family are especially attractive to the Good Bugs
  

  Provide Native flowers for these great Pollinators to feed on.

• Plant tiny flowers for tiny wasps, like Coriander, Queen Anne’s Lace, fennel, angelica, dill, clovers, yarrow, and rue
• Plant composite flowers (black eyed susan, daisy and chamomile) and mints (spearmint, peppermint, or catnip) to attract predatory wasps, hover flies, and robber flies
• Plant low growing plants as cover for ground beetles (thyme, rosemary, or mint)
  
  

  Larvae and adults feed on soft-bodied insects such as aphids, mealybugs, scale insects and spider mites as well as insect eggs.

• Control ants which may hinder the Good Bug’s ability to control aphids
• Do NOT use broad-spectrum, contact insecticides. These will only provide temporary control and will kill more natural predators( Good Bugs) than pests (Bad Bugs). In the long run, this will actually benefit the growth of the pest (Bad Bugs) populations.
• Cover bare dirt in your garden with dead leaves or grass clippings mulch thick enough to shade the soil surface. This will provide shelter for spiders, which are the number one predator on insects.
  
  

  Spiders feed on a broad variety of pest insects year-round.

• Bring in the Birds! – Birds are also very helpful with controlling Bad Bugs. Any trees, shrubs or plants with berries will attract birds. And, no garden is complete without a birdhouse!

What about the Slugs?

Slugs are one of the most damaging pests known to the garden. A family of slugs can devastate a vegetable crop in a matter of days. Slugs will eat any kind of vegetation but prefer tender leaves. Slugs will also eat vegetables and fruits, and cause very unsightly damage to the crops.
Attracting slug predators to your garden can help to control or avoid a slug population. Toads, snakes, ducks, chickens and raccoons are some of the most common predators of slugs.

As you continue to learn to work with the Good Bugs and the inner working of your garden you will see the benefits and all of the “give and take” at work at your feet.

Food Buzz Words can lead to misguided choices and confusion

“Food is power. Are you in control of yours?” – John Jeavons

Today’s food market, heavily laden with politics and big business, has developed a long list of confusing and obscure buzz words.

These words are the coinage of food debates and controversy. Words like “organic“, “healthy“, “genetically modified” and “heirloom” are tossed around like candy. Many of us think we know what they mean or, at least, we think we know what they DON’T mean and, most of us are wrong!

Learning the Food Buzz Words can help you make more informed choices and give you the power of knowing you no longer have a fog over your eyes every time you put something in your mouth!

“Our choices at all levels—individual, community, corporate and government—affect nature. And they affect us.”- David Suzuki

• Organic vs Conventional:

  When one looks at the time-line of food production the modern definition of the phrases Organic and Conventional is a bit confusing. In any other context, “conventional” would mean the way something has traditionally been done. The established practice or accepted standards. Not the case with food!

  For  most of human history, agriculture can really be described as organic. It has only been in very, very recent history, the 20th century,  that a large supply of new synthetic chemicals were introduced to the food supply. This modern style of production is referred to as “conventional,” even though “organic” production has been the convention for a much greater period of time.

  In organic food production, the use of conventional non-organic pesticides, insecticides and herbicides is greatly restricted and only used as a last resort. However, contrary to popular belief, certain non-organic fertilizers are still used.

  So, to clarify this confusion, the old and traditional way of growing food without chemicals is termed ORGANIC while growing foods with the newest technologies and chemicals is called CONVENTIONAL.

• GMO:

  Genetically Modified Organisms (GMOs) are any plant, animal or microorganism which have been genetically altered using molecular genetics techniques such as gene cloning and protein engineering. Genetically modified (GM) foods are foods that have had their DNA changed through genetic engineering.

  Unlike conventional genetic modification (in this case “conventional” means the traditional way) that is carried out through time-tested conventional breeding of plants and animals. Combining genes from different organisms is known as recombinant DNA technology, and the resulting organism is said to be “genetically modified,” “genetically engineered,” or “transgenic.”

  GM products include medicines and vaccines, foods and food ingredients, feeds, and fibers. For example, the gene from a fish that lives in very cold seas has been inserted into a strawberry, allowing the fruit to be frost-tolerant.
  
  In America, there is no law dictating GM food products be labeled or disclosed in packaging.

• Hybrid:

  Plants that have been cross breed with other compatible types of plants in an effort to enhance a plant’s growth, fruiting and hardiness are called hybrids. Many of our modern plants are the results of these crosses.

  Hybrid plants are different from GM plants in that they are NOT the result of genetic alterations using molecular genetics but, rather, the result of cross-pollinating plants that are compatible.

  Hybrid seeds do not always reproduce true to type. This means that second generation plants may produce different results. If you are buying hybrid seeds, look for seeds which are labeled as reproducing “true to type”.

• Heirloom/ Heritage:

  Heirloom plant seeds have been saved and passed down through generations by gardeners looking to preserve their genetic diversity and the unique qualities of the plants they produce. To be capable of being saved, Heirloom plants are Open Pollinated.

• Open Pollinated:

  Open Pollinated (OP) plants are plant varieties that are capable of reproducing themselves. OP plants will produce seeds that, when replanted, will produce seedlings that are identical to their parent plant. Not all plants do this.

• Untreated Seeds:

  Untreated Seeds have been produced without the use of synthetic fertilizers, herbicides, pesticides or genetic modification.

• Biodynamic Seeds:

  Biodynamic Seeds are from farms or gardens which use Biodynamic practices of managing land for ecological balance. The organic growing methods and planting cycles are integrated with the local environment where possible.

• Monsanto:

  Monsanto is the world’s largest conventional seed company and the leading producer of genetically engineered (GE) seeds, selling 90% of the world’s GE seeds. Monsanto’s products have been the target of much world debate related to the future of agriculture and food production.

  

  Through Genetic Engineering technology, Monsanto married Roundup and Corn

For a list of genetically engineered crops visit: safe-food.org

For further information on Monsanto and the effects on the farming industry visit: OrganicConsumers.org or Wikipedia

To purchase Organic, Heirloom, untreated, NON GMO seeds visit: eGardenSeed.com

“Let every individual and institution now think and act as a responsible trustee of Earth, seeking choices in ecology, economics and ethics that will provide a sustainable future, eliminate pollution, poverty and violence, awaken the wonder of life and foster peaceful progress in the human adventure.”  – John McConnell

“You must be the change you wish to see in the world.”- Mahatma Gandhi